A bright, savory way to bake fish

Veracruz-style fish brings together ingredients that seem made for one another: tomatoes for sweetness and body, olives and capers for salty contrast, and chile for gentle warmth. This home-kitchen version starts the sauce on the stovetop, then finishes the fish in the oven. It is inspired by the flavors of pescado a la veracruzana rather than meant as a definitive regional recipe.

Choose a mild, firm white fish that can hold its shape under the sauce, such as cod, haddock, halibut or snapper. Fillets of similar thickness will cook more evenly. If your pieces vary, check the thinnest ones first and remove them as they finish.

Ingredients for four servings

Gather about 1½ pounds of boneless white fish fillets; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 small onion, thinly sliced; 2 garlic cloves, minced; one 14-ounce can of diced tomatoes with their juices; ⅓ cup sliced green olives; 1 tablespoon capers, drained; 1 bay leaf; and ½ teaspoon dried oregano. Add a small sliced jalapeño or another mild chile if you like heat. Have salt, black pepper and lime wedges ready for finishing.

Because olives and capers vary in saltiness, taste the sauce before adding much salt. If you have fresh tomatoes in season, you can use about 2 cups chopped tomatoes in place of the canned ones. Simmer them until they soften and release enough juice to spoon around the fish.

Build the sauce, then bake

Heat the oven to 400°F. Pat the fish dry with paper towels and season it lightly with salt and pepper. In an oven-safe skillet, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and chile, if using, and cook briefly, just until fragrant.

Add the tomatoes, olives, capers, bay leaf and oregano. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce tastes rounded rather than sharply raw. If it becomes too thick, stir in a splash of water. Taste and adjust the seasoning, keeping in mind that the fish will be seasoned too.

Nestle the fillets into the sauce in a single layer and spoon a little sauce over each one. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until the thickest part of the fish reaches 145°F on a food thermometer. Start checking after about 12 minutes; the total time may be closer to 20 minutes for thick pieces. If you do not have an oven-safe skillet, pour the sauce into a baking dish before adding the fish. Remove the bay leaf before serving.

Make it a meal

Spoon the fish and its sauce over rice, or serve it with warm tortillas to catch the tomato juices. A simple cabbage salad adds crunch; roasted potatoes or sautéed zucchini make satisfying sides without competing with the sauce. Offer lime wedges at the table so each person can add a little brightness to taste.

This is also a useful dish for a relaxed dinner with guests. You can make the sauce ahead and refrigerate it, then reheat it until hot before adding the fish and baking. That keeps the last-minute work brief while letting you serve the fish as soon as it is cooked.

Handle the seafood with care

Keep the fish refrigerated until you are ready to cook, and thaw frozen fish in the refrigerator rather than on the counter. Use a clean board and utensils for the fish, wash your hands after handling it, and keep its juices away from foods that will be served without further cooking. Refrigerate leftovers promptly, within two hours of serving.

A squeeze of lime is for flavor here, not a substitute for baking. Citrus can change the texture and appearance of raw fish, but citrus curing does not make raw seafood equivalent to cooked seafood. For this recipe, use a food thermometer to confirm the fish has reached 145°F.

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