What makes a good bacalaíto?
A bacalaíto is a salt cod fritter with a lacy, crisp edge and savory fish throughout. The batter is thinner than a dough, so each spoonful spreads when it meets hot oil. Recipes vary from kitchen to kitchen, but the essentials are the same: desalting the cod, breaking it into small flakes, seasoning the batter and frying in manageable batches.
For about eight to ten fritters, start with 8 ounces of salt cod. You will also need 1 cup all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons cornstarch, 1 teaspoon baking powder and about ¾ to 1 cup cold water. For seasoning, set aside a small grated garlic clove, 2 tablespoons finely minced onion, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or parsley, a pinch of dried oregano and black pepper. Hold off on adding salt until you know how salty the prepared cod tastes.
Soak and cook the salt cod
Rinse the cod under cold running water to remove surface salt. Place it in a covered container with plenty of fresh cold water and refrigerate while it soaks. Change the water two or three times during soaking. Thin pieces may be ready after an overnight soak; thick pieces can need a day or more. Time alone is not a reliable guide because salt cod varies in thickness and saltiness.
To check the seasoning without tasting uncooked fish, cut off a small piece and cook it in simmering water until done. If it remains too salty, give the rest of the cod more time in fresh water in the refrigerator. Once the salt level suits you, drain the cod and simmer it in fresh water until it is opaque and flakes readily. Fish should reach 145°F at its thickest point. Let it cool enough to handle, then remove any skin and bones and break it into small flakes. Drain well so excess water does not thin the batter.
Keep the fish refrigerated during the long soak rather than leaving it on the counter. Wash hands, utensils and surfaces after handling the uncooked cod, and use clean equipment for the cooked, flaked fish.
Mix a batter that spreads
Whisk the flour, cornstarch and baking powder together. Stir in the garlic, onion, herbs and oregano, then add ¾ cup cold water. Fold in the cod and enough additional water to make a batter that falls easily from a spoon. It should spread into a thin round in the pan, not sit in a thick mound. Black pepper adds a little warmth; a pinch of ground annatto can add color, if you have it.
Let the batter stand for about 10 minutes while you heat the oil, then stir it once more. Fry a small test fritter before adjusting the seasoning. If it tastes flat, add a little salt; if the cod still supplies plenty, leave the batter as it is. A test fritter also shows whether the mixture needs another splash of water to spread more easily.
Fry for crisp edges
Pour about ½ inch of neutral frying oil into a sturdy skillet and heat it to around 350°F. Carefully spoon in a few tablespoons of batter per fritter, leaving room between them. If necessary, nudge each portion outward with the back of the spoon to make a thin disk. Fry until the underside is deep golden, turn it, and cook the other side. Each side may take a few minutes, depending on thickness and oil temperature.
Move finished fritters to a rack set over a tray so air can circulate beneath them. Let the oil return to temperature between batches. Oil that is too cool can leave fritters heavy; oil that is too hot can brown the outside before the batter cooks through. If you do not have a thermometer, fry one small fritter first and adjust the heat until it sizzles steadily without darkening too quickly.
Serve them while they crunch
Bacalaítos are at their best soon after frying. Serve them as a snack or alongside a crisp cabbage salad, sliced avocado or a simple tomato and onion salad. A squeeze of lime can brighten the finished fritter, but it is a serving accent, not a substitute for cooking fish. Citrus curing does not make raw seafood equivalent to cooked seafood.
If you have leftovers, refrigerate them promptly in a covered container and reheat them in an oven or air fryer until hot to restore some of the crunch. For a gathering, you can soak and cook the cod ahead, then keep it refrigerated and mix the batter shortly before frying.
